PARIS, France: Gucci’s bold experiment to fast-track its latest runway looks straight into stores appears to be paying off, with early data showing a jump in store traffic following new designer Demna’s first collection for the Italian luxury house.
The brand’s “see now, buy now” strategy, rarely attempted by major labels, made pieces from Demna’s Milan Fashion Week debut immediately available in select stores the day after the show, instead of the usual months-long wait.
At Gucci’s Rodeo Drive boutique in Los Angeles, foot traffic rose 53 percent in the week after the September 23 Milan show, while visits at its Wooster Street store in New York climbed 19 percent, according to data from Placer.ai provided by Colliers. Across the United States, Gucci store visits hit a three-week high over the launch weekend.
The push comes as owner Kering seeks to revive Gucci after two years of slowing sales. The brand, which accounts for the bulk of Kering’s revenue, saw revenue tumble 25 percent year-on-year in its latest quarter.
Demna, known for his edgy aesthetic at Balenciaga, staged his Gucci debut like a film premiere, teasing images online before the official reveal and releasing the collection in 10 flagship stores worldwide until October 12.
Marketing experts say the instant availability strategy capitalizes on social-media buzz and celebrity hype before it fades. “Gucci needs to seize this window of attention after months of uncertainty,” said Laure Anne Chansel, a fashion-marketing professor at EIML in Paris.
The Milan collection, featuring fur coats, gold dresses, and refreshed versions of Gucci’s Bamboo and Jackie handbags, will be rolled out globally in January.
On Paris’s Avenue Montaigne, sales staff said the response had been the strongest in months. “I ended up being there longer than I thought,” said Gayle Deifel, a tourist from California who bought a pair of leather boots after discovering the new collection.
Gucci also showcased smaller, more affordable versions of its classic bags, such as a downsized Jackie priced under 2,000 euros (US$2,347), compared with 3,200 euros for standard styles, a move aimed at younger, more cautious shoppers.
“The new pieces touch all eras of Gucci’s customer base,” said luxury consultant LinLi Teh.
The gamble comes amid intense competition: rivals like LVMH’s Louis Vuitton, Chanel, and Dior are investing heavily in splashy events, while Kering, carrying significant debt, must balance marketing with cost cuts.
In China, Gucci streamed Demna’s Milan debut at a celebrity-filled event in Beijing, briefly boosting online attention. “The campaign has increased talkability, but conversion into sales remains to be seen,” said Alexis Bonhomme of Trinity Asia.